Lines of Fashion - 1940's

While pattern catalogues are becoming scarce and pricy, other publications can be a source of information to assist in dating fashion. A wonderful resource is sketch or art instruction books, and I'm pleased to share with you "Practical Fashion Sketches" by Charlotte H. Young.

While the book has a 1943 copyright, I suspect it was published toward the end of or just after World War II due to the amount of fabric and buttons used, and the opulence of designs. Or it may have been fashion sketches of designs that had not yet been put into production because of the war. Either way, it is a delightful look at fashion of the Forties!

The book is divided into sections for Lingerie, Daytime, Coiffures/Hats/Accessories, Coats and Evening. The illustrations take the artist from stick figures to final rendering. 

Lingerie

The offerings of this section include undergarments, pajamas and gowns, housecoats and spots. 

By today's standards, the housecoat of the 1940's was probably more elegant than many things worn to a dress-up occasion now.

"Spots add the sparkle and humor to ads that appeal to the public. Advertising agencies can always use clever and amusing spots." 

Many, many years before Adobe Illustrator and Photoshop, print ads were hand-drawn. "Spots" were the pen and ink equivalents of posed or action photographs.

Fashion by the Clock

In proper 1940's society, fashion expectations were dictated by the hands of the clock, thus sections for Daytime and Evening. Further division was prompted by activity. Daytime had social, business and recreational styles. Evening had informal and formal styles. 

Daytime

Daytime presented itself as Dressy, Tailored or Sports. Dressy is what would be called a "tea dress" today, and was worn for lunches, teas and afternoon social gatherings. Tailored attire was worn for work, bank business or shopping. Sports (activewear) was defined by season.

Daytime Dressy

Daytime Dressy

Daytime Spots

 

Shapes of Fashion - 1970's

Definitions of a fashion style evolve over time, so when dating patterns it is helpful to have a benchmark for a given era. For example, peplums have been used since the 1930's, but their style and shape have changed as time has passed.

In my travels, I found a wonderful sewing book from the early 1970's  - "The Complete Family Sewing Book" by Curtin Publications. Within it pages were basic line drawings of different styles of the period, a snapshot of 1972. I hope you find these illustrations of dresses, skirts, pants, coats and jackets helpful.  

Dresses

A-Line, Tubular, Bell and Misc. 

Skirts

Straight, A-Line, Wrap A-Line, Gored, Flared, Dirndl, Inverted Pleat, Unpressed Box Pleats, Stitched Box Pleats, Knife Pleats, Yoke with Pleats, Kilt

Pants

Long, Short and Jumpsuits

Jackets

Bolero, Blazer, Chanel, Peplum

Coats

Chesterfield, Classic Fitted, Classic Full, Trenchcoat, Wrap

Capes

Poncho, Fitted Cape, Monk's Cape 

And just for fun......

Sleeves

 I hope you enjoyed this blast to the past. And yes, I wore each and every one of these styles.  

Dating WWII Sewing Patterns

While World War II began in 1939, it was the attack on Pearl Harbor on December 7, 1941 that prompted the United States entry into the conflict. Once war was declared, most industrial and manufacturing output and resources were consumed by the war effort. 

In May 1942, a national system of rationing was put into place. It was a time when the whole country pulled together to support our boys overseas, and it was patriotic to do with less. My mother was 11 years old at the time, and remembers the ration stamps and books that allocated each family gasoline, canned food, tires and household goods. Mom, Grandpa and Grandma faired better than most, as they were farmers with their own garden and cattle. 

Shortages of goods and raw materials affected fashion in the early 1940's and dictated new styles. Knowing the guidelines of the times will help date 1940's patterns. Guidelines are not absolutes, but do lend clues. There are overlaps in style at the beginning and end of WWII.

• Buttons - Ever wonder why vintage buttons are carded in groups of three? Dresses and blouses were limited to three buttons. Supplies of buttons were needed for uniforms.
• Skirts/Hemlines - To conserve fabric, skirts raised to knee length, and were straight, rather than full or overly flared. Hems were to be no more that two inches.
• Cuffs - No cuffs, as they were a waste of material.
• Belts - Skinny belts of 1 inch width, of fabric or cutting down older belts to make multiple thinner belts.
• Sleeves - Cap sleeves used less material than set-in sleeves
• Faux Blouses/Dickies - These "faux" blouses protected the modesty of the wearer using minimal material.
• Austerity/Sensibility - Anything flashy or garish was considered bad taste and unpatriotic. Plain and simple was de rigueur of the day.
• Patchwork - many apron patterns of the time used scraps from the sewing basket. Fabric bits larger than a quarter were saved and reused.

Advance 4293 - Tailored Blouse with cap sleeves and three buttons. 1946.

Advance 4284 - "Smart and modest for daytime. The belt may be self or owned." Thin belt, two buttons, knee length. ca1943

Simplicity Pattern 1508. Thin belt, no cuffs or buttons.  1945

Simplicity 1412 pattern for Misses' Blouse and Accessory Set. 1945

Scarfs are made reusing handkerchiefs, bandanas or other scarfs. Blouse has cap sleeves and no buttons.

Faux Blouse (Dickies) - DuBarry 5432  ca1943

Hats and Canteen Bag Pattern McCall 1200 - 1945

New hats and bags came from the sewing machine, not the dry goods store. 

And a little something for our boys overseas........

Advance 3975 - 1940's Starlet Summer Wear - Bra Top, Shorts, Long Overjacket 

 

1940s RKO Starlet & Pin-up Girl Renee Haal  -  Blouse & Culotteskirt

There were other ways for the homemaker to clothe her family during wartime. Many pattern companies published flyers and books to teach better sewing skills, and to rework old garments into new clothing.  In my next posting, I will share a Du Barry Patterns instruction book and McCall Sewing Corps flyers.

For more information about rationing in WWII, there is a wonderful site produced by the Ames, Iowa Historical Society. The site has historical images and news clippings which outline the entire process and mindset of the time.
http://www.ameshistoricalsociety.org/exhibits/events/rationing.htm

 

When I started selling online some years ago, I happened upon a box of vintage patterns at an estate auction. The price was right ($4.00) so I took the plunge. Having no interest or skill in sewing, that bargain box opened an exciting new adventure.

The biggest challenge for me was to date the patterns. Two things helped my learning curve. First was my mother, who was a fine seamstress, and at 82, still has a mind that is sharp as a tack. Second was a number of blogs and websites that shared photos and information on vintage patterns. Over the years I have accumulated a fair amount of vintage sewing information, and would like to share it with other vintage aficionados.

The purpose of this blog is to share my fondness of all things vintage with those of like mind.

Today I would like to share a publication from June 1946 - "Fashion News" Advance Patterns. It was published by Penney's (J.C. Penney Co. Inc.) as a promotional give-away to advertise Spring/Summer fashion patterns by Advance Patterns. Publications such as this are very helpful in dating patterns. Pattern numbers are listed as well as showing the characteristics of a particular year.

I hope you find this helpful. Please check back often for more entries, and I welcome any questions or comments from fellow vintagers!

Cover

Junior Dresses & Playwear

Afternoon (Tea) Dresses

Back Cover

1946 Advance Patterns numbers shown in June publication: 4226, 4227, 4230, 4231, 4232, 4233, 4234, 4235, 4236,  4237, 4239, 4240, 4241, 4242, 4243, 4244, 4245, 4246, 4247, 4248, 4249, 4250, 4251, 4252, 4253, 4254, 4255, 4256, 4257, 4258, 4259, 4260, 4261, 4262, and 4263


If you are in the market for vintage patterns, please visit my shops on Etsy and Bonanza.
http://www.etsy.com/shop/VivianVanOwen   
http://www.bonanza.com/booths/VivianVanOwen?s=2
Contact me at salesvivianvanowen@gmail.com