Dating WWII Sewing Patterns

While World War II began in 1939, it was the attack on Pearl Harbor on December 7, 1941 that prompted the United States entry into the conflict. Once war was declared, most industrial and manufacturing output and resources were consumed by the war effort. 

In May 1942, a national system of rationing was put into place. It was a time when the whole country pulled together to support our boys overseas, and it was patriotic to do with less. My mother was 11 years old at the time, and remembers the ration stamps and books that allocated each family gasoline, canned food, tires and household goods. Mom, Grandpa and Grandma faired better than most, as they were farmers with their own garden and cattle. 

Shortages of goods and raw materials affected fashion in the early 1940's and dictated new styles. Knowing the guidelines of the times will help date 1940's patterns. Guidelines are not absolutes, but do lend clues. There are overlaps in style at the beginning and end of WWII.

• Buttons - Ever wonder why vintage buttons are carded in groups of three? Dresses and blouses were limited to three buttons. Supplies of buttons were needed for uniforms.
• Skirts/Hemlines - To conserve fabric, skirts raised to knee length, and were straight, rather than full or overly flared. Hems were to be no more that two inches.
• Cuffs - No cuffs, as they were a waste of material.
• Belts - Skinny belts of 1 inch width, of fabric or cutting down older belts to make multiple thinner belts.
• Sleeves - Cap sleeves used less material than set-in sleeves
• Faux Blouses/Dickies - These "faux" blouses protected the modesty of the wearer using minimal material.
• Austerity/Sensibility - Anything flashy or garish was considered bad taste and unpatriotic. Plain and simple was de rigueur of the day.
• Patchwork - many apron patterns of the time used scraps from the sewing basket. Fabric bits larger than a quarter were saved and reused.

Advance 4293 - Tailored Blouse with cap sleeves and three buttons. 1946.

Advance 4284 - "Smart and modest for daytime. The belt may be self or owned." Thin belt, two buttons, knee length. ca1943

Simplicity Pattern 1508. Thin belt, no cuffs or buttons.  1945

Simplicity 1412 pattern for Misses' Blouse and Accessory Set. 1945

Scarfs are made reusing handkerchiefs, bandanas or other scarfs. Blouse has cap sleeves and no buttons.

Faux Blouse (Dickies) - DuBarry 5432  ca1943

Hats and Canteen Bag Pattern McCall 1200 - 1945

New hats and bags came from the sewing machine, not the dry goods store. 

And a little something for our boys overseas........

Advance 3975 - 1940's Starlet Summer Wear - Bra Top, Shorts, Long Overjacket 

 

1940s RKO Starlet & Pin-up Girl Renee Haal  -  Blouse & Culotteskirt

There were other ways for the homemaker to clothe her family during wartime. Many pattern companies published flyers and books to teach better sewing skills, and to rework old garments into new clothing.  In my next posting, I will share a Du Barry Patterns instruction book and McCall Sewing Corps flyers.

For more information about rationing in WWII, there is a wonderful site produced by the Ames, Iowa Historical Society. The site has historical images and news clippings which outline the entire process and mindset of the time.
http://www.ameshistoricalsociety.org/exhibits/events/rationing.htm